Back to Life, Back to Reality….

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good morning, good afternoon, or good evening… gosh, i lost in time. october 8th was one of the longest days of my life. it all started oct. 8th at 1am when i left dempasar, indo. on an 7 hour flight to japan, had a 14 hour layover, then a 8 hour flight back to hawaii. and guess what? it’s still october 8th here. 29 hours later, i’m finally back home. jet lagged? i don’t know. i don’t even know or care what time it is now. i’m going to jump into the shower, take a nap, and wake up when i feel like waking up. i usually don’t do that because i want to get back into the groove here. but with all the work that’s piled up on my desk, along with the thousands of emails, and an upcoming eye surgery, i won’t be leaving my house for a while. for a surf? maybe. heard there are fun waves in town today but after surfing perfect uncrowded surf in indo for the past 3 weeks, i don’t feel like going out to bowls and battling for waves. and i also don’t want to hear how i missed the last south swell. guys, i’m still dreaming so don’t wake me up….

back to life, back to reality…. that song was in my mind the whole flight back to hawaii. my own car. my own bed. my own schedule. and i don’t have to live out of my suitcase anymore. 3 months of that takes its toll. i’m done traveling for the year… oh wait, a tahiti trip is pending…. i totally forgot about that…. anyway, have a nice day where ever you are….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide