How’s your Surfer Mind?

168

 pulled up to a really nice bar in Yokohama.  10 years ago, i would never be interested in these kind of classy bars.  but now, things have changed… i wanted to go back to my roots so the first thing i ordered was a Jacksan and Coke!   then looking at this smoked ham sitting on the bar, my mouth started to water.   master bartenders of Japan showing their skills.  i just love to sip on my drink and watch the fine art of bartending.   take a slice and dip it into olive oil.  then take a sip of your drink and you’re in heaven…i come in from foiling yesterday and see my friends keys in his car door.  i was looking for him but he was still surfing at Rockpiles.  haha.  so i wait till he comes  in and ask him “being 69 years old, how is your mind recently?”   he said “really good!”  so i wait until he tries to leave, then i see him panic and start to look for his keys.  i show him this photo and said “my friend forgot to take his keys out of his door when he went surfing.”  he laughed and said “wait, that’s my keys!”  haha.   he actually went surfing for 2 hours and forget his keys in the door like this.  so yeah, we all have to look after each other because the older we get, the more this will happen.  i’m just glad nobody stole his car and then went to burglarize his house.  that would have sucked…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide