All Night Long…

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 when i got back from Japan yesterday, a couple of my friends said the didn’t want to surf because it was too cold.  what???  you guys have no idea what too cold is!   since my New Year started off on a bad note, i want to make it better, starting today!  so i got up early, did 200 pushups, stretches, plank pose, sit ups, then grabbed my foil and yoga mat.   paddled out i the dark.  all the locals didn’t want to surf today because the waves were small and cold.  but when you have a warm Dove wetsuit and a foil, it’s very warm and exciting!   this was my first wave… after each wave, i was feeling better and better.  i felt like a free bird again having the whole ocean to myself.   i got a text from my friend when i got in.  she asked how’s Bowls.  it told her, “shitty if you surf, but epic if you foil.”  she didn’t reply.  haha…   i caught 6 waves in 30 minutes and i was the happiest surfer in the world!   grabbed my yoga mat and headed to yoga.  worked on my weak leg and did a lot of balancing poses.  hurts, but no pain, no gain!   i learned something so good today.  my yoga teacher said “you are your own medicine, only you know the best way to cure yourself.”  she is right because i’m curing myself each and every day from now!   got home and it was still only 10:30am.came home and saw Satoshi and the “On the Beach” boys at my house.  always good to see these Miyazaki boys!

early this morning, i had something to ask Maki-san so i texted her to call me when she wakes up.  her reply was “i am up…  it was up ALL NIGHT LONG.  haha.”    i was laughing so loud in my car.  haha!  she went to the Lionel Richie concert last night.   tonights show is sold out too but i’m hoping for an ALL NIGHT LONG night too!   i love every single song Lionel Richie ever sang!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide