last week it was so cold and so small. paddled out to Bowls and seen local boys Rodney and Pat out. i told them “you guys are hard core. i respect guys like you.” because i really respect the hard core surfers in this world.
last week was freezing cold, this week is like Summer! perfect time for Oshima-san!
smooth and clean conditions for the girls…
i always have a great time surfing and laughing with Oshima-san…
clam and cool…
smooth and stylish…
today was my first time of 2019 on a shortboard! my cut is still pushing out chemicals, my ankle still hurts, but this is my rehabilitation. surfing is my happiness, and surfing is my life. without it, i’d be an asshole…
i’m getting old so been misplacing my keys a lot. now i have the Tile GPS on it so everything should be alright. PEACE…
