felt so good to get in the water early and see Oshima-san surfing so relaxed! look how beautiful this wave, style, sky, and everything is! 
being not able to surf for so long was good in a way. it made me realize how precious every single wave is. i’m appreciating it more, and loving it more too. 
and this man is loving it too! you should have seen his last wave today. big, smooth, and long! 
thank you Oshima-san for the surf and laughs. see you again soon! 
then went surfing this afternoon with Ueda-san and Mayumi-san. nice waves, nice rides, nice weather, and nice smiles…
and the local girls were out ripping too! 
when we came in, i was totally into living in the moment. i even thanked the ocean for giving us great waves all day long. i was so happy and so was everybody else…
it was a very happy drive all the way home. you won’t believe this, but i followed this rainbow all the way to my house. nature totally amazes me…
