it’s unbelievable how big and ugly the waves were yesterday because today the waves were big and beautiful! look at Ueda-san go on his early morning ride!
Ueda-san going left while Mayumi-san gets ready to climb the big foam mountain!
it’s so funny because Mayumi-san still doesn’t know how big of waves she’s riding. if she turned around and looked behind, she would probably freak out! not too many surfers can make it to the outside on days like today…
the waves were so good that i had to get a few on my own. so happy my cut is almost fully healed!
Ueda-san taking off on sets all by himself.
and riding it till the end with the biggest smile on his face.
another big wave for a brave woman! if any of you girls want to surf with the perfect surfing style, take a good look at this photo because this is what you can call perfect!
loving life here in Hawaii. look at this!
Ueda-san told me it’s his dream to get barreled. pretty soon it’s going to happen! but so far, this is the closest he’s gotten!
when you spend so much time with people in the ocean, you start to grow a special kind of bond. to me, this is what surfing is all about…
later this afternoon, i was sitting at Diamond Head getting ready to foil when i got a text from Seira-chan. we were supposed to have our first session tomorrow but tomorrow is tomorrow, today is today. so i texted her back “wanna go surf now?” what do you think a 19 year old surfer that came to Hawaii to surf would say? yes, of course!
and one of her dreams on this trip was to meet and surf with Kelia Moniz. and guess who happened to paddle out? yes, Kelia Moniz. none of this was planned. this is what happens when you dream. and this is what Go-Naminori is all about…
