want to thank Morimoto-san for the amazing senbei! look how beautiful it’s wrapped! Morikawa-san and the boys work at a factory that actually makes these cans! top quality from the surfer boys! packaged perfectly. i never really appreciated a can until now. personally knowing the surfers who work hard to making quality products makes me appreciate it very much. i’m keeping these. thanks again guys! when we pulled up to Diamond Head yesterday, i told Seira-chan,
“ok, we came here yesterday so you should know how to get out. so walk down the cliff and see you in the lineup.” this is one way i teach surfers how to be ocean independent. and when i paddled out 5 minutes later, she was in the perfect spot! smart girl… like is said before, when i foil, people paddle far away from me. that’s good because i don’t want another surfboard nose in my foot! anyway, i’m still learning so i fall a lot. and you wouldn’t want to be anywhere near me… i see the set of the day, i start paddling for it, everybody paddles the opposite way, then i tell Seira-chan to “GO!!!” she takes off behind me on the most perfect wave of the day! then i turn on my camera and shoot behind me. i actually have the camera in my left hand and pointing it backwards while i’m foiling away. pretty centered yeah? haha. then i straighten out and take the drone shot as Seira-chan sets up for the nice bottom turn. followed by a very beautiful cutback. perfect style, and perfect timing. i’m starting to really like shooting on my foil because i can’t get photos like this any other way… i don’t care who you are, but when you walk up this cliff back to the car, you are freaking exhausted! so exhausted that you can’t even talk… i’ve been doing this for 34 years and i still can’t get use to it. i don’t think Seira-chan will either. haha…after our wonderful session, it was time for some hot pho and a nice talk. this girl has big dreams ahead and i’m sure it will all come true…