Making of a Surfer

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 today we surfed a different spot.  it’s called Rockpiles and when we paddled out, there were 2 guys.  then they caught the next waves in and there were the only 2 of us left!   it was a perfect time to teach Seira-chan to transfer her weight between her back and front foot.   so now that she’s pushing harder on her back foot, she’s gaining twice the speed.    and when doing a turn, push the back harder, and lighten up on the front.  just like this!  arms, knees, and eyes are perfect on this cutback!   there were so many unridden waves so i had to go on a few too!  i can’t believe we had the whole spot to ourselves all morning long!   Seira-chan is a very smart girl.  she listens carefully and does exactly what i tell her to do on the next wave.  by the time we finish boot camp for the next month, she will an amazing surfer!    we come in from Rockpiles and go straight to Kewalos.  this is where world class surfers are made.  guys like Joshua, Seth, and Kelia Moniz, Carissa Moore, Ezekiel Lau, Keanu Asing, and many other World Tour surfers.   this this the training ground! Seira-chan gets really nervous surfing a new place.  in order to fix that, i tell her to jump off the rock, paddle out, and surf by herself.   i wanted her to feel as nervous as you can get.  then there will be nothing more to be nervous about.  haha!   it worked because she overcame her nerves in 5 minutes and surfed amazing!   us hungry surfers went for some garlic chicken and panang curry for lunch.   then some bubble milk tea in Downtown.   then whale and wave watching at Diamond Head.  i asked Seira-chan, “where do you want to surf next?”  she said “Kewalos.”  and she chose the right place because it had to be the best wave on the island today.  and guess who was out?  yup, Kelia Moniz!  so lucky again!!!Seira-chan getting comfortable at any spot in any conditions.  this is how you become a good surfer!  an amazing day of 3 rounds of surfing.  see you again bright and early tomorrow!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide