Wave Attack!

209

 when i checked out Diamond Head this morning, the waves were super small.   then i went back 2 hours later and it was coming up.  only 3 guys out!   want to welcome back the tradewinds!   we pulled up to Kewalos and got ready to surf.   as we were going to walk to the point, a truck pulls up and a girl yells to us “konnichi wa.”  omg Kelia Moniz again?  it’s the 3rd time i seen her this week!  that’s like a miracle!  i told Seira-chan, “you must be lucky or something because i never called or texted Kelia once this week.  it was just pure luck that we got to see and surf with her 3 times in 5 days.”  i guess miracles do happen in Hawaii!   todays lesson was to paddle out to Kewalos in the afternoon when school gets out.  that’s when all the local young aspiring girl surfers all head out there to train.  up until now, i was taking Seira-chan to uncrowded spots to practice her form.  now it’s game on!   Seira-chan is very kind and sweet.  it shows in the water because she would never paddle for a wave if someone else is.  so now, i’m teaching her not to be so kind and sweet.  if you want to do good in contests, you have to be aggressive and attack every wave.   just in a few days, her mental has changed drastically and now she’s catching just as many waves as the other girls.  amazing… it was cold and raining.  but no rain, no rainbows.  please rain everywhere and every time because rainbows makes me happy…and peaceful cool nights under the Honolulu City Lights makes me happy too.  gosh, i just love this place.  it was another lovely day in paradise…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide