we pull up to Diamond Head and i explain to Seira-chan how each and every spot will be. from North shore to Sandy beach. i asked her to chose what kind of waves she wanted to surf and she said “right here at Diamond Head.” it was the right choice!
i always stress to everyone to smile when they are taking off. that way, your body is relaxed and you can enjoy the ride more. just like this.
there were only 2 ladies next to us when we paddled out. we were talking and all wondering where everybody was?
then the 2 ladies went in and it was just Seira-chan and i for a while. being a Saturday, it’s pretty unbelievable…
lunch time was custom made pizza!
Seira-chan told me she doesn’t really care for pizza but this one was the best she’s ever eaten in her life. i feel the exact same!
then it was dessert time. sweet yummy cupcakes!
then i took a drive out to Sandy Beach to foil this afternoon. i had no idea it was 8′ solid and crazy!
waves were breaking off the cliffs up to 50′ high. i couldn’t believe how big it was! so i think “um, maybe i’ll drive an hour deep into the East and score some perfect waves?”
pulled up to the bay and the waves were pumping! i have never seen it like this in my whole lifetime! i was flying so fast i couldn’t control myself.
i had the fastest rides in my life, along with the most heaviest wipeouts of my life! 
then i came in to talk story with the foiling boys from all over the island. that’s because everybody was there. still hard to believe how much money is being poured into this industry. each one of my friends must have at least $10,000 into foiling. i’m too embarrassed to tell you how much money i spent already…
then i came out and watched the little kids foil in the inside. if you had a longboard or foil, you could have ridden a wave from the outside to the inside for over 2 minutes easily. i only caught 5 waves and i was totally exhausted.
then it started to pour rain. i hardly know these foilers but we get along really well. we would never share a wave on our shortboards, but we share waves on our foils. and we also share an umbrella standing in the rain. haha. if you saw us under the umbrella, you would have though something was wrong. one of my friends drove by and said “you guys look cute together.” haha…
