Jurrassic Park Surf Session!

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 i asked Seira-chan this morning if she wanted to surf at Diamond Head or at Jurrasic Park.  guess where she chose?   even though i surf here many times, i still trip out on the amazing view.   you won’t find a place more beautiful than this!   and of the 30 years of passing by here many of times, i never seen it this big and this good. it’s a very wide bay with waves breaking everywhere so you have to be very knowledgeable of where to catch it.  Seira-chan was spot on!   good to see the boys out.  Donald and Glenn Pang.  super cool guys!   Seira-chan surfing better and better each day.  i told her to paddle out by herself and she wasn’t nervous at all. this is a very fun wave if you have the right surfboard.   welcome to Jurassic Park!  few more smooth rides for everybody.    when Seira-chan first came to Hawaii, she told me she doesn’t really like to go backside.  that’s all changed as she loves it now!  and to see World Champion John John Florence foiling out there today was a lucky day for Seira-chan.  she’s been bumping into World Champions almost everyday!   we were so hungry so went to eat the fattest piece of prime rib.  i was so full that i could barely walk out of the restaurant.  haha…then guess what?  i went to surf with Akamatsu-san this evening at Bowls.  when the East swell is that big, there is guaranteed wrap around in town.  only a couple guys out and we scored the most perfect lefts at Bowls!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide