Hawaii Big Wave Training…

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 today was the perfect day to practice for bigger waves!   Seira-chan is so relaxed so we went to challenge ourselves to a spot that only breaks when it’s big.  look at this beautiful takeoff!    my 2 foiler friends and i were sitting in the inside because the sets were too big for us.  haha.  so i told Seira-chan “go to the outside, connect with the ocean, find the peak, and when i say “go,” you better “GO!!!”   now she’s surfing with complete confidence.   she told me she’s not scared  or nervous anymore.   and the cutbacks are getting more and more beautiful.   and more and more powerful.   even my local friends told me she’s getting better!   this is absolutely perfect surfing technique!   it’s so cool to see the progression each and every day… and good to see Dave out ripping it up on his foil.  love photos like this when it’s so glassy… it was only us at this secret peak and then everybody paddled to our spot after because we were having so much fun.   but it was time to go in anyway.  Seira-chan scored again!   amazing surfing girl!   then went for a very delicious locomoco at my favorite place… thank you Seira-chan for today.  and thank you for these lovely snacks!  see you tomorrow!i had lots of work on my computer this afternoon.  but when i heard that Diamond Head was good to foil, i dropped everything and went foiling till the sun set!   another wonderful day in paradise…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide