East to South: Friends who Foil

229

 so stoked to see Donald out yesterday.  such a cool guy that loves to have fun flying airplanes and foils.  but i wouldn’t want to get in Donald’s way because he will run you right over without any doubt.  haha.  this guy is from Kauai and was ripping hard! look how beautiful this is!  good to see David out too.  another surfer turned foiler. always stoked to foil on the same wave with Carter.  unlike Donald, i can trust him.  haha… when you drive out to the East side for an hour, then surf for 4 hours, you must be either crazy, or hooked!  i was leaving after a 3.5 hour session and Carter was still out.  took this from my car as i was leaving… i really think i’m a lucky person when it comes to finding waves.  to score in the morning on the East side, then score in the evening on the South side?  there were only 3 surfers at Bowls and the waves were absolutely beautiful!   Akamatsu-san just came off the airplane.  first time in Hawaii, and first time surfing in Hawaii.  he was nervous because we went straight to the world famous Ala Moana Bowls!   after his first wave, he was so stoked! if it wasn’t for Dove Wetsuits, there would be no way in the world i’d be surfing 3x a day.  super cool, super relaxed, and super lucky.  i hope Akamatsu-san doesn’t think Bowls is like this everyday because it isn’t.  we just scored on this perfect Sunday evening!  last ride of the day…good surfing Akamatsu-san.  so happy you got to experience a perfect surf session on your first day in Hawaii.  see you in the water…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide