Textbook Surfing Style

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 Seira-chan can paddle out to pretty much any spot and figure it out.  i can see her connecting to the ocean more and more each day and i love to see that!   and her surfing is 10x better than a week ago.  now she’s not falling, she’s catching more waves, and she’s surfing with lots of confidence.   when ever a wave use to come, she use to look at me to see if i say go or not.  now she can figure out which wave is good on her own.  being focused and relaxed will get you there… Seira-chan’s surfing style is getting much more better too.  good stance and good form.   i saw her catch a wave from the outside, do 2 off the top turns, a couple cutbacks, ride it all the way to the inside, and pull out with confidence.  that would be a huge score in a surf competition… Carter was out foiling and told me “wow, her surfing style got super smooth.”   Carter knows because he’s seen her surfing almost everyday.  then the next wave, Seira-chan wipes out right in front of me!  haha… she’s there somewhere under the wave…when ever she falls, i tell her “get back up, forget about it, clear your mind, keep calm, and try again!”  then this next wave is perfect surfing again.  so proud of you girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide