Young Girls who Surf!

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 Mai-chan surfed Diamond Head with her friends before, but didn’t like it.  so i told her before the first time we paddled out together, “surf it with it me and you will love this place.”  and this is how you’re supposed to do it… and now, she doesn’t want to surf anywhere else.   there is no other way to get a photo like this unless you have an expensive drone, or an expensive foil.  in this case, an expensive foil.  thank you Mai-chan for not running me over… always good time surfing with you girl!   making new friends each day.  mostly foilers so we all stand by each other.  nobody is competitive like surfing, we just support and enjoy life like free birds… yesterday was the first time i took Seira-chan sunset surfing.  and when the golden light came out, she said “omg, this is so beautiful.”   and so was her surfing.   all my local friends at Diamond Head now knows Seira-chan.  so everybody is watching out for her.   this is the part of surfing you can’t teach, this is the part of surfing from just being a sweet girl.   and all my friends are saying how good she’s getting.  it’s so incredible how connected she’s getting to the ocean.  it takes normal surfers years and years to learn what Seira-chan learned in just 10 days.   this college girl is on her spring break of a lifetime!  first trip alone, surfing so good, and loving Hawaii more and more.  these are the kinds of trips that will change a persons life for the better…  i’m past the phase of yelling and yelling because all that was done in the first 5 days.  now it’s all about being more connected to the ocean, being more calm, and enjoying life.  this is what surfing is all about…the sunset surf session was amazing and so beautiful.  there was no where else in the world i would have rather been.   and i think Seira-chan was thinking the same thing…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide