Living in the Great Moment…

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last day of surfing with Mai-chan.  really going to miss this girls energy.  always happy and always excited to do anything and everything…

and her bottom turns are getting super good!

and riding super smooth too.

this is the ultimate dream shot as a photographer.  putting each other at risk, trying something different, and the results are one of a kind…

thank you Mai-chan for the exciting surfing sessions.  keep on your great positive path in life as it will only get better…

good to see Dave out practicing and perfecting one of most hardest things to do.  foiling…

want to thank Leleo Kinimaka for sending me this photo from today.  i had a blast out there with you boys!

Rikita-san landed this afternoon, i picked him up from his hotel, we went to the North Shore for a little while, then came back to Bowls at sunset time for a refreshing surf.   it was a wonderful day!

i learned a lot on how to balance out my life.  i work hard, and i play harder.  and when i play, i don’t care what anybody thinks about me anymore.   i have fun and live in the moment, and that moment was in the front row with friends at Pato Bantan!

then when Pato came over and let me sing in the microphone, i didn’t pass up that chance of a lifetime.  i never ever sing, and i can’t sing at all.  but once again, i’m just living in the moment.  and that moment was great!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide