Surf your Dream

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want to thank Ichimura-san for the snacks from Halekulani!  so sweet!

ever since this kid Shuuto-kun told me he wanted to become a policeman to stop crime, he’s always been on my mind.   i wish he would come to Hawaii to help stop all the crime in paradise.

another day of experimenting, another day of learning.

this evening was so beautiful!  picked up Seira-chan for a late sunset session.

like always, she paddled out on her own, and caught some nice waves to begin the session.

then we had 3 heats.  15 minutes and top 2 waves.  ever since i challenged Seira-chan to a man on man heat the other day, she’s learned that waiting for a wave to come to you won’t happen often.  you have to go find it.  just like this!

yesterday morning at Diamond Head, a guy named Yusuke-san paddled up to me and say he checks my blog.   then this morning a guy named Hoshi-san paddled up to me at Bowls and said he checks my blog.  then this evening a girl named Tomoko-san paddled up to me and said she checks out my blog.  so i stop to think “wow, i better be careful on what i do?”  haha!  thank you guys and girls for checking out my blog.  stoked to see you guys out at the best spots in town these past few days!  “surf your dream.”

of the 3 heats we surfed, Seira-chan did good in all of them.  averaging 4 waves per heat and very good scores, i think she will be very hard to beat when she competes this summer in Japan.

we surfed till dark and ended another perfect training session.  just a couple more fine tunings and this girl could become a professional surfer if she wanted to.   she use to be shy and timid in the water, now she’s aggressive and attacks.  good girl!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide