Reconnect: Peace on Earth

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 yesterday, i took Seira-chan long boarding.  i try my best to explain things before we go out, but sometimes you just have to learn by making mistakes.  so when she was having a hard time in the beginning, i just sat back and watched to see how she would handle it.   it’s kind of like going backwards.  kind of like being disconnected from the ocean.  some people get frustrated, some people quit, but not Seira-chan.  i told her to reconnect and that’s exactly what she did.  it’s really hard to jump off a short board and ride a longboard.  i remember being frustrated in the beginning too.  it’s just so different… this wave is when i felt that Seira-chan reconnected herself to the ocean.  i was so happy to see that happen right in front of me.   then she got better and better by each wave she rode. before we paddled out, i taught Seira-chan how to do a cross step on the beach. but i told her not to do it until she’s ready.   then as i seen her riding this beautiful wave, i thought it was the time.   so i yelled “cross step!!!!”  and yup, she did it!!!   this is freaking perfect style!   i got the double peace sign which usually means everything is so fine!  good job girl!   the lesson today was reconnecting yourself to the sea.  job well done!  then i got home after a very long day and seen Kaira again.  we read a book and i fell asleep.  haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide