Surf Culture Japan: The Crazy Family

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 had such a great time with Father and Daughter this morning.  Kaoru-chan surfing for her first time, and Kouta-san surfing for the past 50 years.  yes, i said 50 years!!!  Kouta-san is the kind of surfer i respect very much.  surfing for half a decade and still loving it.  started out at 20 years old and never gave it up.  watching him on the shortboard really inspired me today… Kaoru-chan on her very first wave of her life!  she rode so many long waves and kept on coming back out for more.   amazing energy!   imagine getting a passport, going abroad for the first time, and landing in Hawaii?  i’m sure Kouta-san was enjoying this moment in the calm ocean watching the canoes going by… and riding waves into Diamond Head.  it goes to show you that it’s never to late to come to Hawaii!   Kouta-san is 70 years old young.  i was so happy to take him and his daughter surfing in Hawaii for their first time.  and i was also happy to hear his stories about Japan’s surfing culture back in the 1970’s.  the stories about the “Crazy Family” of Tokyo surfers.  be back later to tell you more about it… then took this wonderful family to a wonderful lunch… spicy seafood noodle soup.  the best on the island. then picked up the boys for an afternoon session.  Hattori-san and Kundo-san loving life on the longboard…a few people asked how my cut is doing.  well, it’s been over 2 months and it’s still not fully healed.  give me another few weeks and it should be all good again…  thanks for asking.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide