Asayama-san wanted to check out our secret spot again so that’s where we went. nobody was out and the waves were peeling perfect again! bigger and better rides than yesterday!
and when you fall, you just get back up.
and when you get back up after a big wipeout, you just laugh. this is called calmness…
then paddle back out and get a bigger one.
ride it to the end and call it a day. i was amazed how calm this young man was today…
us hungry surfers were so hungry so we went to our local spot. prime rib for two please! Asayama-san’s meat was much more thicker than mine and he ate it all!
then we got the bonus piece of watermelon!
if you go to any beach or park and see mismatched slippers. that’s us!
came home and played with my nieces. these kids bring joy to my life! and when they don’t listen or start crying, i just take them home. so easy. haha.
