Diamond Head Wave/Photo of the Day!

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 after our outer island trip and all of the ocean experiences this man has overcome, there is no wave big enough to scare Asayama-san.   no matter the size or location, when he paddles, he’s 100% committed.  this is what you call total commitment!   and getting to his feet is just as fast as a young teenager pro surfer.  it’s actually even faster than my popping up… took my foil out and did a couple loops around our spot.  then everybody left and it was just the two of us.   then i seen the golden set of the day coming so i told Asayama-san to “GO!”  and like this man always does, he GOES!   then i pop up on my foil and ride behind this young man.  of course yelling all the way.  haha.. then i speed up in front of him, set my camera a little lower to get a different angle, and here it is.  we both went out to Diamond Head to get this specific kind of photo.  mission accomplished!   we paddle in two very happy little boys.  our recent outer island trip not only made us smarter, it made us closer.  Asayama-san doesn’t believe me when i tell him he has a fan club.  i know lots of people that admire and are totally inspired by him.  including me… then we went to take an afternoon nap at the pools edge… then i told Asayama-san, “hey, there are probably a lot of people that hate us right now.  we shouldn’t be having this much fun.”  haha..  in our world, the word “hate” isn’t even in our minds…  it’s all about living life to the fullest…very strong, very confident, and very funny.  everybody loves Asayama-san!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide