Back to one of my craziest rides at Backdoor.  This is when you can see things starting to go bad.  From a normally routine takeoff to suddenly 4 guys in front of me.  John John is on the top left and pulled back.  He’s not the problem.  The problem is the 3 surfers duck diving right in my line.  It’s a major distraction.  And the biggest part of the problem is the bodyboarder who just duck dove right under me.  Look good and you will see a guy right under me.  It was him duck diving under me that made the water start to surge right under my surfboard, thus changing the trajectory.

I’m still focused and somewhat confident that I will recover my line.  The takeoff was perfect and my line right into the barrel was perfect too.  It was the start of one of my best barrels of my life.  Then in the next split second, the nightmare began.  OMG!

Welcome back rainbows weather…

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had a great morning session with Okamoto-san.  The waves were actually really fun.  Trade winds are back so the swell was much bigger than the past few days.

Super cool guy that loves to surf!

It felt so good to feel the cool trade winds again.  It’s been a while so the air is clean, and so is the ocean.

The other day as Toshimi-san was sitting on her surfboard, a school of needle fish came darting right towards her.

One ended up hitting her and landing on her surfboard.  Then it was just as shocked as we were so it didn’t move for a while.

Then it woke up again and wiggled itself off the surfboard.  A few months ago in Indonesia, one of these fish jumped and stabbed a surfer girl right in the heart.  She died a few minutes later.  So yes, these fish are cute, yet could be very dangerous.