Had a great morning session with Okamoto-san.  The waves were actually really fun.  Trade winds are back so the swell was much bigger than the past few days.

Super cool guy that loves to surf!

It felt so good to feel the cool trade winds again.  It’s been a while so the air is clean, and so is the ocean.

The other day as Toshimi-san was sitting on her surfboard, a school of needle fish came darting right towards her.

One ended up hitting her and landing on her surfboard.  Then it was just as shocked as we were so it didn’t move for a while.

Then it woke up again and wiggled itself off the surfboard.  A few months ago in Indonesia, one of these fish jumped and stabbed a surfer girl right in the heart.  She died a few minutes later.  So yes, these fish are cute, yet could be very dangerous.

Surf trip Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 6-8′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and big rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

The surf report forecasted 3-5′ today.  BUT, like I always say, “never believe the south shore surf report.”  Bowls was almost flat so I got back in my car and left.  

I had a feeling it might be small so I threw my foil in my car just in case.  Headed out to Waikiki to surf with the Uncles.  Uncle Clarence riding a wave while Uncle Mark paddling out.  Nice sharing waves with you Uncles!  

I haven’t foiled for a very long time.  First time this year and all my equipment was corroded.  I wasn’t even sure if I could fly again.  But when I took off on my first wave, I pumped into another, and another.  My first ride ended up being 5 waves.  I was so stoked!  So good to feel so free again.  It feels like I have the ocean all to myself!

I’ve never felt the current out at Waikiki so strong before.  The wind was blowing one way but my boat was pulling the opposite way.  I was checking one of my motors and had to hang on for my life.

These are the days inexperienced people get swept out to sea.  It was like a river flowing straight out to sea.  It was hard to even hang on.  Please be careful out there!