Remember Surf Trip 2018@SouthSumatra:  Swell of the century!

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore overhead today and triple overhead tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head waist to chest high.
Light South winds at 10mph.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I went to check the waves this morning in the dark and even though it looked fun, I decided to take a day off.  I’ve surfed over 100 rounds since January 1st so my body felt like doing something else.  That something else was to take a long walk.  I only had slippers so running wasn’t an option.

I walked around looking at trees, the ocean, and of course, the waves.  I saw a couple fun spots with nobody out.  Even seeing that, I still enjoyed my walk.

Very interesting buildings near Diamond Head.  They call this the Gold Coast of Oahu.

Back to yesterday.  Watari-san’s been surfing for 5 years and he caught his best waves of his life in Hawaii.

A super cool guy with a good surfing style.  More big swells on the way.  My bruised ribs finally healed so feeling 100% again!

Yesterday once more:  Boot Camp Day 2 with Watari-san!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 10-15′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!