Yesterday once more:  Boot Camp Day 2 with Watari-san!

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 10-15′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light winds so good morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I got a text from Benji Brand saying “You see this?! Dream shot!! Wow”

I was lucky enough to connect with photographer Josh Bystrom last week at Backdoor.  There is a story to this that SWELLNET.COM published.  It’s pretty cool because I pulled into this barrel and saw this lone photographer in the right place at the right time.  This was one of the big days at Pipeline/Backdoor so no other photographer was brave enough to swim and wait in the scariest spot you need to get a photo like this.  You almost have to be crazy.  Yes, the photos from the beach are good, but nothing compares to being in a huge barrel like this together.  Of the hundreds of water shots I’ve gotten at Backdoor throughout the past 40 years, this has to be one of my best.  Dream shot for sure!

*CLICK HERE FOR THE STORY ON SWELLNET.COM.

Yesterday once more:  Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-6′.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light North winds at 10mph.
Sunny and cool day.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!