Wednesday October30日 2024年

Summer Solstice 2024

Today is summer solstice so that means it’s the longest day of the year.  Each day after today will be shorter and shorter.  I can’t wait until it gets dark at 6pm again because it’s hard to sleep when the sun is shining in my window.

This morning was super fun.  The girls paddled out to their own little wave and had 6 heats.  Gaining more knowledge heat after heat.  We’re getting Seira-chan ready for her big contest that’s coming up.

Since the contest in Japan could possibly be about this size, we practiced on short boards and worked on technique.  I was the judge sitting in the channel watching the girls compete for waves.

While Seira-chan was waiting for a wave, a shark swam to the left of her.  We both saw the fin come out of the water which was pretty cool.  Then she saw about 7 turtles today too.  Dolphins yesterday, and monk seals the day before.  Luck girl.

When we’re having heats, the girls are very serious.  You have to put your friendship aside and be wanting to win.  If you can’t do that, you shouldn’t be surfing contests.

Smooth style like this will impress any judge.

Good surfing today girls.  I forgot we went for Round 2 but too sunburnt for that.  Photos of that coming tomorrow.  Goodnight.

June 20, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Styling Kyle on the Ben Aipa…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana knee high and good.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii Surf League Day 1

In order to become a well rounded surfer, you have to be able to ride anything.  This morning, Seira-chan rode one of Seth Moniz’s high performance board which is only 24 liters.  It’s much more challenging to catch waves, but once you’re up, it surfs really well.

It’s pretty impressive to be able to ride this board.  I tried it and couldn’t even paddle it.  

Seira-chan’s been averaging 3 turns per wave.  Total control from start to finish.  That’s what the judges want to see.

Then we started having heats.  In Japan, the heats are 13 minutes so that’s what we practiced.  For that short amount of time, you can’t make any mistakes.  The girls were hassling each other and being very competitive.  It was pretty cool to judge.

I was trying to explain strategy from a judges perspective.  It’s the judges that will make or break you.  

The girls learned today that surfboard selection is very important.  Tomorrow we’ll be riding different boards and having more heats.  I’m hoping for good choice of equipment and good strategy.  

Yes, there is no where else in the would I’d rather be right now.  I’m falling in love with Hawaii more and more as I get older and wiser.  Look at this!