Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 4-6′ coming up to 8-10′ this afternoon.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light winds becoming trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I started off this beautiful day off by surfing a secret spot that was really good.  Right after I came in, I got a message that Mateus’s game is going to start soon.  Perfect!  I got to the field right in time.  Look at Mateus getting ready to bat!

Mateus plays in right field, just like Ichiro Suzuki!  Go-Mateus!!!

I remember being so happy to see a family member come to the game and watch me play.  It’s a feeling I still have a hard time describing.  So yes, I got a little emotional thinking about when my Grandpa use to come to see me.  Family support is priceless.

I finally found the video of one of my worst wipeouts at Backdoor last week.  This is not a place where you want to be.  I’m not sure how my body survived this because it was the lowest tide and at the most critical part of the wave.  Yes I hit the reef, but thankfully not head first.  I’ll explain to you later how this happened.

@ Hawaii Kai:  Go #9 Mateus Fukunaga!!!