Uncle Ray and Uncle Lance out at big Bowls.

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana solid 6′ and good! BIGGEST DAY OF YEAR!
WQS 100 ON at Bowls.
Diamond Head 6′, big and wild.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s pretty cool how so many Hawaiian surfers know Tokura-san.  Maybe it’s because Tokura-san’s been sponsoring Hawaiian surfers since the 1980’s, or maybe it’s because Tokura-san’s been surfing for longer than all of us.  I think it’s a combination of both.  A Legend Japanese surfer who’s been supporting Hawaiian’s for over 40 years, we all respect that.   A happy Lance Hookano encounter in the water.

Surfing for 59 years of your life, that’s “Legend” status!  

A normal day for me is having my students longboard almost hitting my face.  Come on guys, “look forward!!!”  

I took this photo the last time it rained.  Then I looked towards the mountain and was thinking of my plants and flowers in my yard.  

I can smell the sweet gardenias coming through my window.  I went to pick a few and now it’s filling my house with sweetness.  Waking up to this smell is the best!

Sugiura-san’s first wave in Hawaii!

Nice form long rides.

Backside bottom turn attack.