Thursday October31日 2024年

June 8, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Morning Bowls Gallery.

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Surf into Summer contest ON at Bowls.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light trade winds so perfect conditions again.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Stories of a Lifetime

Wow, nobody was expecting the swell to grow this fast again.  Today was the biggest day of the year so far.  I paddled out and caught 5 perfect waves, then got beaten down by 20 waves.  So much energy for this brand new swell.  So far, this year has been a wonderful summer if you’re a South shore big wave surfer!  

After a session like this, I like sitting on the beach and watching the action.  You can see so many things happening.  There were boats trying to get out of the channel.  Today was a day not to take out your boat.  

This is a 25′ boat that is about 25′ in height too.  So you can imagine how big those waves are.

A very close call.  Not worth the risk.

On days like this, everyone has a story.  A story of a lifetime.

Good to see Isaiah Moniz getting big barrels out there.  And good to see him with a red magic board!

Big Friday

Today is the biggest day of the year! Morning session at Bowls. So big and so good!