Lance Hookano with the ray of morning light…

Good morning 3:50am.
Aa Moana overhead and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and good.
Light winds so good conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Carter Lee with the deep sunrise bottom turn.

Thank you again Neal for the photos.

Surfing is my life.

Tokura-san below the sea.

Lance Hookano in the barrel at Bowls Rights.  Photo taken by his friend.

Back in the 1990’s, I use to surf Backdoor everyday.  If it was barreling like this, I’d be there.  If you surfed there before, you know how dangerous it is, and also how rewarding it is.  Surfers die out there, and surfers have their best barrel of their lives out there.  High risk, high reward.  This is the best size for the long barrel rides.  You basically have to take off at Pipeline and enter the barrel from behind.  I’m not sure if I made this one, but I’ve pulled into hundreds of barrels like this out there.  I got hurt a few times, but glad to be alive.  And yes, my best barrels of my life all happened at Backdoor.