Thank you again Neal Miyake for the photos.  It’s always fun to hook up with you in the ocean.  It’s looking like the waves will be good for another week so see you in the water.  

Gosh, this swell is everlasting and it’s still going, going, and going!  

It’s pretty funny that just a few years ago, I would see fear in her eyes.  When the waves got big, she looked like she saw a ghost.  But now, she will just turn around, paddle hard, and ride the biggest sets Bowls has to offer.  Confident and calm.  Pretty cool to see the progress.

Angels hair at the Hookano’s.

I’ve been taking this aminos for the past week and it’s been keeping me energized.  Been surfing 3 and sometimes 5 hours a day and feeling great.  This is for professionals or anyone that wants to keep up with the action.  Thank you Deco-san for The Snow Surf supplements!

After surfing Bowls yesterday morning, I knew Big Rights was going to be good in the afternoon.  It was better than good.  Overhead sets and barreling.  It was paradise out there.  

There’s been this young Tahitian girl ripping Bowls these past 2 mornings.  The future is here!  

So stoked to see James getting barreled at Big Rights.  I looked into this barrel and seen eye to eye with him.  There were some good barrels to be found and luckily I found my best one of the year so far.  We scored!

Came home and Spiderman jumped out from my brothers house and scared me!  

This Spiderman is sweet.  He picked flowers for me.  Now the house smells so good!

Then Spiderboy came over to play.  This kid is so cute!  

I don’t have any video games or iPad games as they aren’t allowed in my house.  If you want to come over, you will play with real toys.  These will stimulate your brain, and also give you eye and hand coordination.  Look how focused Saint is.  Haha.

Just in one hour, this kid learned how to build buildings with legos.  

And he was so stoked to complete it!  You kids can come over anytime!

Yesterday Once More:  Double session and double barrel!

Good morning 3:45am.
South swell continues.
Ala Moana head high and good.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!