More fun waves at Bowls this morning. It was inconsistent early in the morning then all of a sudden, the waves started pumping for 30 minutes straight. If you were out, you scored.
Clean conditions and easy to ride.
If you surf everyday, you will get stronger no matter what. Just paddling and being in the ocean will give you energy. I see it all the time and now that Tokura-san’s been surfing everyday, he’s looking and feeling better than ever. His paddling got so much stronger!
75 years old and surfing. That’s the inspiration I’ve been following for the past 32 years. And I will continue to follow forever.
Honolulu was just named the safest city to visit in the world. REALLY??? So you’re telling me that Honolulu is safer than some cities in Japan??? Who made up this list? I totally disagree with that. There’s guys getting shot, stabbed, and robbed every single day here in Honolulu. I think this is totally misleading so don’t believe this. If you visit Honolulu, don’t let your guard down. I tell my Japanese friends not to go out at night.
Kimura-san is in G-Land now and the waves are pumping! He sent me this photo of Taizo and Satoru-san. OMG, yeah boys!!! Good to see you boys living life to the fullest!
