It was weird but the waves were good again today.  I arrive to the beach in the dark so I’m not expecting anything.  But to paddle out to perfect chest high waves and surf it with just a couple of your buddies, it can’t get any better.  Today was Sunday and everybody was probably sleeping, except Carter.  

This was the spray off Carter’s surfboard.  Right in my face!

And guess who got the best waves of the morning again?  Yes, Smiling Malcom!  People ask me why I get so many photos of Malcom and I tell them, “because Malcom catches all the waves!”  Haha.

The median home price in Hawaii is $1,085,800 (170,345,000 yen) now.   They say that only 1 in 5 families can afford buying a house now.  When I graduated from high school, the median price was only $200,000.  At that time, every family could afford a house.  Call it inflation or call it crazy!  No wonder locals are moving off the island.  

And a loaf of bread in Kauai will cost you $13.39.  Will things get more affordable here in Hawaii?  I don’t think so!

The deep bottom turn by Carter.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another beautiful day here in Hawaii.  The waves weren’t as good as yesterday, but it was still good.  Lots of wave and lots of sun.

Of course Malcom smiling and laughing all the way on this one.  It’s funny because I don’t think some people like him just because of the fact he’s always happy.  Haha.  If everyone enjoyed surfing as much as Malcom does, this world would be a better place.  I truly believe that.

For the past 32 years since I’ve known Tokura-san, I don’t think we had this much time to just sit and talk.  We’ve always been on surf trips, business trips, sales trips, contests, and always with a lot of other people.  So just sitting down and talking like this was very pleasant.  We’re finding out things about each other that we never knew before.  So cool!  Also, we’ve been brainstorming about the next surf destination.  We want to go to somewhere remote.  Somewhere neither of have been before.  That’s going to be hard because between the both of us, we’ve practically traveled to every surf spot in the whole world.  

BUT, we might have found the last place that might be interesting to surf explorers.  From Hawaii, it will take 5 flights and 3 days of traveling to get there.  Is it worth it?  It always is.  I spent another 5 hours today researching and it’s looking very promising…