Today was the kind of day surfers take a break.  Rainy, windy, and really big.  BUT for these surfers, there is no break.  They came here to surf so that’s what we did.

In the whole ocean, it was just us 3.  Nobody in the parking lot, beach, or ocean.  We were like 3 little kids enjoying Disneyland all to ourselves.

Tokukura-san kept on paddling out to the outside and riding wave after wave.  It was like Mother Nature was providing 100 waves an hour and we could choose which ever we wanted.

I was super proud of Namikoshi-san today.  Today was the hardest conditions to surf, but he had his best performance.  He rode the waves for so long as it kept on going and going.

Tokukura-san is very active.  He came here to surf, surf, surf, and do the triathlon.  4 straight days of workouts in Hawaii.

Good job Namikoshi-san!  Hope you boys are ready for Boot Camp Day 2 tomorrow.

Yesterday once more:  The power of the North Shore…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana head high and onshore.
Diamond Head overhead and onshore.
South winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and heavy rain.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Trinko told me that yesterday this secret spot was absolutely perfect.  So this morning I woke up at 3am and was determined to go to the North Shore secret spot.  There was nobody out all morning and lots of empty waves.  

A couple barrels breaking on the shallow reef that were so beautiful.  By 8am, I was already driving back home with the biggest smile on my face.  Sorry no photos of the waves because we like to keep secrets a secret.

Back to yesterday’s session.  Tokura-san very active and riding so many good waves.  I was following him on my foil watching him carve up this nice wave.  This is us enjoying the world famous Diamond Head view.

Throughout the past 32 years, we’ve traveled the world and shared thousands of waves together.  The journey continues right here in Hawaii.

Deco-san surfing really good too.  This was one of those magical moments that only a surfer knows the feeling…