Early morning North Shore session.  Head high and perfect.  Secret spot with nobody out.  Score!

Happy face driving home…

Yesterday once more: Raindrops keep falling on my head…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and coming up today.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
South winds so going to get onshore in town.
North shore chest high and perfect offshore.
Sun, clouds, rain, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

After the heavy rain last night, I knew the water was going to be dirty.  Look how brown it is.  No way we were going to surf at Bowls so looking for clean water was the only option.  Passing by this yacht all the time really makes me think how expensive it must be to upkeep it.

I prefer Mayuki.  She’s just as beautiful and very low maintenance.  That’s a dream partner.  Haha.

Covid changed things.  It changed it in a way where I have much more time to enjoy my free time.  And nothing better to enjoy it with the person who guided and supported you through life.  My first Boat trip was in Indonesia with Tokura-san and that changed everything.  Ever since then, we’re always searching for the perfect wave.

We pulled up to a usually very crowded spot but today there was only one surfer out.  Yesterday there were 40 surfers out.  Thanks to the rain, everybody stayed in bed.  We dropped the anchor and paddled out to another dream session.  Today I was focused on getting photos that show the beauty of surfing, and the beauty of a Hawaii boat trip.

Perfect waves, warm weather, clear water, and nobody out.  It was another session we will never forget.  I watched Tokura-san ride so many good waves.  It felt just like the good old days when we would surf spots around the world all to ourselves.

If you seen me flying around the lineup with my foil, you would think I’m a dangerous fool.  But you almost have to be a dangerous fool to get a photo like this.  There’s no other way.  Deco-san smiling as she passes by the beautiful shallow reef.

If or when I turn 75 years old, I hope to be surfing and enjoying life just like Tokura-san.  There’s no better way…