Saturday November2日 2024年

Face peel after Japan

After coming back from Japan, all I want to do is surf.  There’s been really good waves everyday recently but it’s been extremely hot.  I’m so sunburnt that my face feels like it’s going to peel off.  I walked by a mirror yesterday and I was so dark that I couldn’t see myself.  I told myself to get out of the water when the sun came up this morning but it was so good that I couldn’t.  The waves were supposed to be coming down but this morning was the biggest day of the swell.

Came home and put an ice cold wet towel over my face to cool it down.  It didn’t work.  My body feels like it’s on fire.

This particular ryokan in Hokkaido was my favorite.  A very big room, huge onsen, cold water plunge, snow, deer, and maybe bears roaming outside.  It was deep in the most natural mountains with the freshest air.  And best of all, no foreigners!

The hairy crab was so good too!

I ordered a melon smoothie from a shop and couldn’t believe how small it was.  This would be considered a “sample size” in America.

The weight I gained in Japan is finally gone.  Eating simply and healthy.  Already looking forward to the next trip abroad!

Blue Hawaii Surfing

Surfer Carter Lee @ Bowls.  Perfect wave and perfect everything.

May 12, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Happy Mother’s Day!

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!