I still have a lot of photos from Taiwan I forgot to post.  Things have been moving so fast since I got back so I hope to get back to it soon.  

This is one situation no surfer wants to be in.  To prevent this, all you have to do is look forward.  

I’ve been waiting for a long time for the winds, weather, and waves to cooperate.  No wind, sunny, and flat are the dream days.  The dream of going to the outer islands to relax has been on my mind everyday for the past year.  Hope it all happens soon.

I’ve seen this spot turn into a tourist trap.  Why would you want to snorkel with a hundred other tourists when there are so many other beautiful spots to snorkel at?  

After years and years, they are still doing construction on the pedestrian bridge over Ala Moana Boulevard.  Why is it taking so long???

The longer it takes, the more money it will cost, and the more traffic will be.

Blue Hawaii please come back!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 6-8′ from the North.
Ala Moana overhead and bumpy.
Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.
West winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Last night before I went to sleep, I checked the swell direction and wind direction.  There was a 3-5′ NorthNorth/West swell with SouthSouth/West winds.  I already knew where we were going this morning.  It’s a secret spot where Todd Mitsui, Mike Woo, and I use to surf back in the 1990’s.  It breaks once a year and when it does, it’s like a dream wave.  As soon as we pulled up to the beach, I saw the most perfect wave break right in front of us.  Yes, this is a dream wave!

We waxed up our boards and paddled out to an empty spot.  Nobody was there when we went out, nobody paddled out, and nobody was there when we left.  This is a very special wave that breaks only on special days like today.  I felt like I went on another surf trip.  Riding thick barreling waves with perfect offshore conditions.

Mighty Mouse caught some really good waves today.  She had no idea how shallow it was, which was good.  It kept her calm while we were out there.  But when we got back safely to the beach, she said “omg, I’m glad I’m still alive!!!”  Haha.

When we came back to town, it was storming, lightning, thunder, and falling trees everywhere.  

This happened right near my house.  I’m glad nobody was on that sidewalk.

Crazy winter weather will continue.  Big North swell with West winds?  I know exactly where we’re going tomorrow.  Hope we score again!