Saturday morning Ala Moana Bowls so good!  Bigger and better than yesterday.  Best day of the year so far.

Connect:  Surfer Mika Akima and photographer Neal Miyake.  

This was my beautiful front row view.

My best shot for today.  South swell continues.  Tomorrow should be another epic day!

Afternoon Diamond Head surf check.  Overhead and good.  BUT, too tired and too much sunburn.  There’s always tomorrow…

Just about a year ago, I almost got rid of my Canon camera gear.  I thought the iPhone was good enough.  Thank goodness I didn’t because now I feel like using it again.  

Having a dream session and remembering it is one thing.  But having a dream session and documenting it is another.  We like to document things because you can go back anytime and relive it.  Not too many times will you be able to enjoy a Mentawai like boat trip right here in Hawaii.  We travel around the world and pay thousands of dollars for sessions like this.  Not this time…

So stoked to be surfing with the surfer who inspired me to keep on surfing.  If it wasn’t for Tokura-san, I would have been a salaryman in Japan as intended.  I remember him telling me back in 1992 that I’m a surfer so keep on surfing.  Ever since that day, I kept on surfing.  So yes, I am very grateful for the words of wisdom.

A smile can tell it all.  Deco-san got so many good waves that all she could do was smile from start to finish.  This is what surfing is all about.

Yesterday once more:  Perfect Diamond Head Cliffs…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light winds so nice morning conditions.
Sun, rain, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!