Tuesday November5日 2024年

May 3, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Lovers Rock…

Good morning 5:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds up to 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Reckless Captain

It was a beautiful morning at Bowls.  Very crowded, not too many waves, but no complaints.  It felt good just to be in the ocean.

Kaimana Beach will be closed for next 7 weeks because a monk seal gave birth to a baby there.  Then today there was a huge monk seal on the beach at Bowls that looked pregnant.  I hope it gives birth on this beach so they close this beach too.  That will definitely keep the crowds away.    

I’ve never seen a bigger monk seal than this one.  She must be the Queen of the monk seals.  

On the beautiful island of Kauai, this humongous cruise ship came way too close to the shoreline.  I’m surprised it didn’t get stuck on the reef.  What was the captain thinking?   There are a lot of locals that are very upset and they have every right to be.

When a boat tries to turn around and you can see sand stirring up, that means it’s very shallow for that big of a boat.  If that boat got stuck on the reef, that would have been the biggest disaster ever in Hawaiian waters.  I’m pretty sure that captain will soon be unemployed.  Putting thousands of passengers life at risk, and almost an environmental disaster in one of the most beautiful places in the world.  Why risk it?

Mana ’92

Tokura san gave me some slides to look at while I was in Japan.  It was slides from 32 year ago.  I was super excited to see it but I didn’t know how?  Do places still scan slides anymore? The last time I looked at a slide, I don’t think the iPhone was even out yet.

So I use the light in my iPad, use whatever I can find to block the glare, then I take a photo with my iPhone.  It’s a miracle it worked.

Manabu Nomoto took this photo back in 1992 North Shore season.  I was sponsored by Local Motion and I was riding a 7’2 Pat Rawson gun.  That was my first year sponsored by Dove Wetsuits.  I was 25 years old with a gold chain and a very bad attitude.  So for all of those who stuck by me throughout those years, thank you from the bottom of my heart.  And for those who didn’t stick by me, I’m sorry but I don’t blame you.  Haha.