Small South swell coming!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light East winds at 10mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

For over 3 weeks, I ate what ever I wanted in Japan.  The dollar was strong so I could eat things that I would normally pass up on.  And I know the yen will rebound soon so this was my chance to make my stomach happy.  

Fresh raw oysters is my favorite.  We don’t have oysters in Hawaii so that is the first thing I always want to eat in Japan.  

The breakfast in this ryokan was amazing.  I wish I could start off my days in Hawaii like this.  This is superfood!    

OMG, the waves were even better than yesterday!  Bigger, better shape, more waves, and less people today.  I caught one of my best wave of all time at Diamond Head.  All the way from the far outside all the way to the sand.  After that amazing session, I was so hungry and was wondering what to eat for dinner.  I get to my car and got a text from Benji Brand.  “hey uncle, we went fishing yesterday and I have some fish for you.”

He gave me a bag full of fresh mahimahi!  Cleaned and perfectly filleted.  

I cut up some sashimi and enjoyed it with rice and miso soup.  I was fully content!  Thank you Benji for thinking of me.  Now I have dinner for the whole week!

The Golden Hour…

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Coming up later today.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!