I use to organize a lot of surf trips.  This one was special because it was one of the first times 2 magazines collaborated.  I got to choose the boys, and Shinomiya-san got to choose the girls.  Along with world renown photographers Alan Van Gysen and John Callahan, we did a double boat trip to the Maldives.  Yes, one week on one boat, then another week on another boat.  Huge boats, perfect surf, party nights, and lifetime memories.

This was my hangout as I wanted to know everything about boats.

As for the Maldives, you aren’t allowed to take in any alcohol in the country with you.  So everything you drink, you have to purchase it on the boat.  The beer was $5/each, and a bottle of Jack Daniels was about $60.  That was super expensive for us at the time.

Luckily, the bartender challenged us to drinking games.  Of course he lost.  So this night, all the beers ended up being free!  Haha.

Isn’t she lovely…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Bowls was chest high and tricky.  Not normally perfect and very challenging.  This rainbow was out all morning long.

She needed some love and now she’s looking sexy.  Looks brand new again!

Spent 5 hours this afternoon backing up my computer and photos onto hard drives.  This is a classic one of Shun Murakami and Seth Moniz at Kewalo’s when they were kids.

I use to make sure Seth had the best boards under his arms.  Now, Seth is making sure I have the best boards under my arms.

Back to the days when I’d travel around Japan chasing typhoon swells.  Big or small, our job was to surf all day.

And since this particular time was in Okinawa, I was looking forward to hanging out with my friends at night drinking Orion beer and habushu.  Hard Reef all night long!  Like Kazubo-san would say “habushu a nice day!”

These were some of the greatest times of my life.  Searching for perfect waves in the Mentawai’s when there were no surf camps, no surfers, no cell phones, no internet, and no bullshit.  Just a bunch of us surfers loving life to the fullest!  Tokura-san showed me how it’s done.

My dinner tonight is Okinawan soba and pork ribs.  Yummy!