Thank you Yana-san for sending me more of these memorable photos from the magazines back in the 1990’s. Every summer on Oahu, we’d do a photo shoot and I’d take my Japanese pro surfers to all the secret spots on the south shore. This particular spot is very dangerous because there is dry reef sticking up in front of the wave. If you don’t make it out of the barrel, you will hit the reef. A huge gamble but always worth the photo. 
Bottom left: We’d shoot at Kewalo’s a lot too. Look at the background and notice there were no buildings. Look today and it’s a concrete jungle. 
Top left: Then once typhoon season started, I’d get a call and jump on the next flight to Japan. We would surf the most protected and localized surf spots all over Japan. The surf culture back then was “surf all day, party all night!” The parties were so good that I can’t remember a single thing that happened. Haha. 
After typhoon season ended, it was back home to Hawaii for me. Any swell over 5′, I’d be at Backdoor getting barreled. Any swell under 5′, I’d be at Rocky Point doing turns. Life was so simple back then. No cell phones, no internet, no social media, and no stress. My job was to surf all day and party all night. The best job in the world! Those were the best years of my life.
