Did you see the full moon this morning???  Wow!  It was bright orange and shining so bright.

The waves were small but super fun.  So proud to see everything getting better and better.  Yesterday afternoon we went to a secret spot and it turned out to be one of our best sessions of the summer.  

This morning working on smooth bottom turns with lots of flow.

Good ride over the very low tide shallow reef.

These 2 girls surf everyday so their bodies have zero fat.  You can’t be more fitted than that.  

The wonders of the sea.  Look how beautiful this is!

This is why I love the ocean so much.  You just never know what you will bump into.

Photos by Mighty Mouse

Taking kids out in the ocean is a risk.  At the end of the day, depending on their experience, they will either love it, or hate it.  So putting Ojiro on the nose of my board when he was so young was nerve racking.  One mistake and a kid will never want to surf again.

But for this kid, he enjoyed it.  He was only 8 years old and very brave.

After each ride, Ojiro would smile like this.  Thankfully, his first experience was a happy one.

Now at 16 years old, Ojiro is still smiling from start to finish.  I asked him “do you like surfing?”  He replied, “I LOVE surfing!”  Keep on surfing kid!

My second home…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!