Yesterday morning once more:  The empty barreling wave…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Saturday morning session:  There were about 25 surfers out at Bowls.  And there were about 10 good waves per hour.  A lot of waiting and a lot of hassling.  Carter getting lucky.

I forgot to post this secret surf spot session we had back in March.  The waves were small but perfect form.  Tokura-san surfing so good!  

Deco-san caught so many good waves.  We were all watching and cheering her on.  

This spot is very secret and very far out in the sea.  Nobody surfs here because it’s only accessible by boat, and the reef is very sharp and shallow.  

Sometimes we need a break from Ala Moana and the chaos.  Out here it’s just us and the big ocean.  This is as fun and peaceful as it gets.

Round 1: Many many people and not many many waves. Be patient or go crazy!