Thursday October24日 2024年

Goodnight and Goodmorning

I totally forgot about this secret spot that is always clean water and no jellyfish.  I use to surf here everyday by myself for years.  Testing boards, getting away from everyone, and connecting to nature.  Crystal blue water, seabirds everywhere, and total seclusion.  Total opposite from Bowls.

Add in a rainbow and it’s a beautiful day!

This lucky girl caught 2 waves and said “I’m content, let’s go in.”  Haha.  That’s how easy this spot can make you happy.

Then we decided to surf in the afternoon but since the waves were so small and the storm was coming, we decided to do something else.

I had my personal Amasan photographer diving for shells.  She didn’t use fins today but was still doing pretty deep!

Tako diving in the deeper water is cool because you have to manage your time trying to trick the tako out of their hole.

Then right when you think you have it, it shoots ink right in your face and swims away.  I was totally blinded!

You have to think like a tako and be smarter than them if you want to bring it home.  This one is going in the freezer.

Today was a warm up for what’s coming tomorrow.  Good night and soon good morning.

Colorful morning

Secret spot. Only us…

August 30, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday’s morning traffic.  Many Japanese visitors enjoying blue Hawaii.

Good morning 4:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and good.
Light winds today so clean conditions.
Rain and clouds.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!