Mid-morning view from my window…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore coming up fast to 10′ today.
Ala Moana waist high.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Another double rainbow morning.  Knee high waves and perfect for long boarding and long rides.

Asami-san’s first time surfing and she did great!  Super calm and very stable.  

Turtles and rainbows today.  This is beautiful.  

Yamamoto-san caught 20 waves yesterday and 20 waves today.  Surfing so good.

And surfing with the biggest smile.  

This is the goal.  Sharing a wave with your loved one.  

I’m so happy the waves are small and perfect.  Now it’s time to longboard south, or go charge north!

I’m so proud of my nephew Seth.  He won Tahiti, then got 5th place in Portugal, and another 5th place in the Philippines.  Next is Pipeline and a win there would be the icing on the cake.

Well, I had mixed feelings when watching the Cloud 9 contest.  I surfed there with practically nobody about 25 years ago when the world never knew about Siargao.  It was so pure back then.  Dirt roads, local people, and just pure nature.  The lineup at Cloud 9 was empty.  Just a handful of surfers that traveled days just to get there.  It kind of reminded me of how Canggu use to be before tourism ruined it.  Anyway, Siargao is still growing fast and is becoming the next Canggu.  I just hope people can go there respectfully because the people in the Philippines are some of the nicest people in the world.  So welcoming and so friendly.  And since it was Seth’s first time there, I can’t wait to hear the his stories.  I’m pretty sure he loved everything about it.