This morning was still good!  It’s been weeks of every morning swell and perfect conditions.  Ray on a beautiful wave.

The girls love their big boards and are practicing to make it perfect.  All I hear is “I want to surf bigger and bigger waves!”  Their adrenaline is pumping!

Look how beautiful it was.  John caught this set and I had to stop to watch.

The more I surf these kind of waves, the less I want to travel and search for these kind of waves.  This is 10 minutes from my house!

The girls and boys wanted more so we went for Round 2.  And guess what?  It was much better than the morning!  Once again, the high tide made the waves longer and more perfect.

Jumping on the 7’6 and feeling very comfortable.

Then I give her my longboard to see how she will preform on the very next wave.  Fully connected and fully driven.

Dove Wetsuits Japan sent us some new gear to test.  This long sleeve rash guard with hood and visor is the BEST!  It not only looks cool, it keeps you cool!  I can’t wait to try mine.

Came home and got to watch the last few minutes of Seth’s heat in Fiji.  In those few minutes, he got 2 barrels that was enough to go from 2nd to 1st.  I was screaming of joy!

Blue barrel take off!  Good girl!!!

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Atsushi Inamura at Bowls this morning.  The waves were 3-5′ and perfect.  The best swell direction so every wave was as good as it gets.

So stoked to see cool Japanese like Atsushi that respects the locals.  And that’s why the locals respect him and his surfing.

This morning we paddled out to the “super full blue moon.”

The girls took out their big boards and caught the biggest waves of this swell.  Taking off so easily and popping up at the top of the wave getting ready for the long ride down.

This is the fastest you will go down a wave like this.  This girl ended up riding her best wave of her life this morning and it wasn’t this wave.  It was a perfect left set wave at Bowls!

Round 2 with the boys and girls.  Everyone cheering on each other and everyone riding perfect waves this afternoon.  The waves were still pumping with epic conditions.  The 2 boys ended riding the best waves of their lives too.  Everybody scored today!

There was a monk seal sleeping on the beach before we paddled out.  He must have woken up because he decided to swim right past us as we were waiting for a wave.  So cool to see things like this.