Photos from Allen from yesterdays “Girls Session!”

The Amasan Tako Hunter…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 15mph so good conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Light winds this morning so perfect conditions.  Everybody was expecting the waves to be smaller than yesterday but once again, everybody was wrong.  It was bigger, cleaner, and a lot less surfers.

Went surfing with the 3 girls and they were helping each other, cheering for each other, and having a wonderful morning.  Rio-san told me that she caught the best wave of her life today.  Stoked!

So cool to see the girls coaching the girls.  All of them know the process and when they can help each other, the process is much faster.

The process is speeding up now as the surfboard is moving the way it should.  Pushing off the back foot and surfing off the rail, just like this.

Then you can go higher up on the wave and do nice turns like this.  It feels amazing.

Between the 4 of us, we probably tried over 8 different boards this week.  From the start, they could instantly connect, surf it good, and be comfortable.  I’m wondering what they want to ride tomorrow?