It’s so funny how people fail at predicting the South shore swells.  Today was forecasted to be 3-5′ and it was almost flat.  This evening was predicted to be 4-6′ and it was still tiny.  We went out to Waikiki on the boat this afternoon and I didn’t even see a wave break.  BUT, it was perfect for diving so we grabbed our masks!  

Today was the best day in a while for free diving.  The wind was calm, the ocean was flat, and the water visibility was as clear as can be.  Good to see a lot of fish again outside of Waikiki.

We dove for tako, fish, and shells.  We caught and released the tako and fish, and just came home with shells.  Beautiful shells!   Our minds are clear again and will be waiting for the next swell if it ever comes.  If it doesn’t, we’re happily going free diving again.  

Going back to the last swell, the take offs were done just right.  Perfect timing on this one!

The last 5′ swell we had, we got really lucky to paddle out to a spot where there was just us.  The waves were way overhead and offshore.  The lesson for that day was to paddle with confidence, paddle hard, and make sure you catch the wave.  The reason is because if you miss a wave, there will be bigger waves behind.  And that’s the last place you want to be on a big day.  

Staying low and focus on looking forward.  And when you’re riding the right size board, it’s pretty easy to succeed.  If you have the wrong board, you will fail.  So yes, board selection on the big days is very important.

We practiced on the longboard for 5 days straight.  This is where the girls learned how to time the waves better.  And when you can time the waves better, you will surf better.

Then you can start taking steps forward, look cool, and feel so excited.

Now it’s time to walk to the nose.  That is coming really soon.

Shiina-san gave me this sticker he designed.  It says “Don’t think, feel.”  I love it!

come

Yesterday once more:  Come fly with us…  Photo by Allen

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!