So happy to be back on my foil this morning.  From my first wave up, I felt so FREE again!  Flying like a bird and feeling like I’m in a different world.  I caught so many waves, did so many turns, and caught my last wave all the way to the parking lot.  My best session in a very long time.

Followed the girls around while they were catching all the waves.  There were some really nice rights if you had the right magic board.  And yes, this board looked magic!

We’ve been trying out different boards on days like this so when the waves get big again, we will be prepared.  Sounds like a new swell on Saturday?

The lefts at Bowls were good too.  Long rides and smooth surfing.

If you can do a turn like this on a 7’3 on a small wave like this, you’re going to be surprised to be riding that same 7’3 on double overhead days.  You’re going to be doing the biggest turns of your life.  Just wait and see.

Enjoying the ride…

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Had an amazing surf session with Shiina-san.  He caught so many waves that I lost count.  

We were practicing the cutback over and over.  Doing it so many times that it became muscle memory.  According to Shiina-san’s watch, he rode 35 waves this morning!  Sugoi!  

The girls were out switching boards and connecting to what ever they rode.  Practicing over and over where maneuvers are becoming so natural.  

Allen was swimming out taking some photos of the girls again this morning.

Nobody can believe that Rocky has only been surfing for 4 years.  Her level is already so advanced and it’s getting better each day.

Got this photo of Malcom the other day.  I think he caught this one all the way to his car and probably smiled all the way home.

Turtles are beautiful but remember this is food for sharks.  

I miss surfing with Tokura-san and Deco-san.  Spending the summer living the Hawaii lifestyle.  

It makes me super happy to see Tokura-san surfing so good at 75 years old.  That’s every surfers dream.

Spent the afternoon in the sand with my Grandnephew’s.  Future watermen?  This is how it all starts.