good morning. it’s 8:30 am and it’s been a long time since i slept in so late. i really needed it… i’m looking at the waves now and it’s still going off. 3′ solid at bowls and not too crowded. i wish i can surf today but i’ll probably be stuck on my computer all day. oh well, i guess you gotta work if you wanna play…. so i don’t mind. have a great day!!
i was driving to town yesterday and couldn’t see anything in front of me. the glare was too much. now i know why there are so many accidents in the mornings and evenings. it felt like i was driving blind folded…
what an awesome vietnam dinner last night. good food, good friends…
yogurt land was going off last night. it was the busiest i’ve ever seen it….
i was in jakarta a few weeks ago thinking of going into the city. i decided not too because of the hotel getting bombed a few years ago. now yesterday, 2 more hotels got bombed. the ritz-carlton and the marriot. it’s so scary to think that it could have been in the hotel we stayed at…. it really makes you think….
and last, don’t forget the 2009 Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction today and tomorrow. i heard there will be some awesome vintage surf stuff for sale. but don’t expect any deals. take your big wallets and expect to spend. see you there….
**CLICK HERE FOR HAWAIIAN ISLAND VINTAGE AUCTION LIVE WEBCAST….
2009 Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction
Jakarta Bombing Again….
oh my gosh!!! again? mata???
ritz-carlton hotel and the marriot hotel just got bombed.
unbelievable….
LEARNING IN HAWAII….
good evening. we dawn patrolled bowls. 4′ and hardly anybody out. score!! then off to the side to shoot some photos. gosh, what a busy morning….
seth caught too many waves at bowls so he was tired. so josh and shun paddled out and caught a few while seth was sleeping on the wall….
josh was complaining and saying the waves sucked. tony and i kind of forced him to surf. and after he checks this photo out, he will be glad he did. i don’t know any other 12 year old kid that surfs with this much power. take a look at the sprays… almost as much as mine… haha…
shun is really learning a lot this time in hawaii.
-he’s learning how to eat meat every night at the moniz house.
-he’s learning how to make friends that don’t speak one word of japanese.
-he’s learning english.
-he’s learning how to catch waves at kewalo’s.
-he’s learning how it feels like to get dropped in on every wave at bowls.
-and most importantly, he’s learning how to draw bigger lines in his surfing. that’s one thing you only can learn in hawaii….
the waves were going off today and will be for the rest of the week. GO-NAMINORI!!!