Oh My Gosh!!!

good morning. i’m checking the surf now and the north shore looks junky. town looks really clean now. there is a small south shore swell on the way and it’s supposed to get overhead by tomorrow. bowls looks pretty fun. wow, it’s only been 2 days and i want to surf already. let the stress begin!!! haha. anyway, i’m going to watch a couple more movies today and take it easy. going to my hand surgeon so hope that gets fixed. then i’ll start to venture out from my house. have a nice day!!

can you believe somebody has been trying to use my credit card? yeah, i got a call from my credit card company asking me if i charged something from the apple store. no i haven’t. so now they cancelled it and i’m credit cardless. been waiting for my new one but it didn’t come yet… that sucks….

i just got my surfing world magazine in the mail today. in it was a letter from the staff at surfing world explaining that they will stop publishing the magazine. that’s sad news. after 34 years of recording surfing history in japan, it has come to an end. it’s going to be a big loss for everybody in the surfing industry in japan from your little aspiring surfer, to writers, to photographers, to the whole industry. but one thing i want to say to surfing world is “Thank You” for all the great years. it’s all because of magazines like yours that made it possible for surfers like me to have careers and to live out my dreams. honto ni arigato gozaimashita!!

this was my first surfing world cover shot. the magazine came out in 1997. kondo-san took this photo of me at rocky point. thanks again to every body at surfing world japan!!!
other sad news:
The 54-year-old Hawaiiana Hotel on Beachwalk is closing. Sad news…..

some good news: the okinawa video i just posted?
#2 – Most Viewed (Today) – Travel & Events – Japan. Good News….

yesterday when i was getting rolled into the surgery room, the nurse asked me, “how much alcohol do you drink daily?” i told her i drink only on special occasions so not that much. i thought she was getting friendly and was going to ask me for my phone number next. then i asked her “why do you ask that?” she told me that she has to adjust how much gas she was going to give me. light drinkers get less gas, and heavy drinkers get more gas. eeh??? so i told her i wanted to change my answer. i told her that i drank 12 beers everyday and a bottle of jack daniels after. she laughed and turned up the gas. i was taking deep breaths and that’s all i remember until i felt the doctor pulling on my eyeball when he was tying the stitches. that felt weird so i tapped the nurse and she already knew what to do, which was to turn up the gas. it felt pretty cool flying around the world with my arms as wings… haha…
so i went to my doctor today to take off my patch. he said the surgery went perfect. i asked him when i can go back in the water, he told me 1 month. then i asked him when i can get on a flight out of here. he said today. so i was online looking for my next destination. umm…. where should i go????

this is my little nephew noah. i still can’t believe how he’s grown up. he might be bigger than me now but i always tell him that i can still kick his ass. haha…

renosuke-kun came to see me off at kansai airport. thanks kid….

the last time we stayed at the swiss hotel, we got treated like VIP guests and ate at the teppanyaki restaurant in the hotel. $1000 a head meal? the beef we ate makes kobe beef taste like beef jerky….

and while we were enjoying our sunset cruise in okinawa, yoshi-san took this photo. i found it on his blog. thanks yoshi-san…. see you again soon….

and last, i want to thank mother nature for bringing me rain and wind for the next week. perfect timing. now i can really relax…